Do you know everything about mtb lubrication and how to keep every single piece and component of your bicycle shiny and functioning? We know the basic rules: never leave the vehicle muddy for several days and do not apply oils when it is dirty. Today, however, we suggest some goodies for the elixir of life. Tips, numbers and timing to prevent and treat your beast. You can try the Moongoose mountain bike.
Mtb lubrication: the complete guide, all the advice to follow and the mistakes to avoid
MTB lubrication is always a hot topic because it concerns the care of our bikes. The mass is divided between those fixed that after each exit disassemble any component and those that instead leave the bicycle encrusted with mud and all sorts of dirt until the next exit, ending up postponing the washing process indefinitely, in a period such as this, in which the rains are still frequent and mud accumulates easily on the trail, having a well-lubricated mountain bike is a prerequisite to counteract premature corrosion of the various elements, due to prolonged use in extreme conditions. Keep reading https://greatestjournal.com/cold-weather-cycling-tips-and-tricks/
Lubrication must not be neglected in any way
These operations do not really steal a lot of time, they are simple interventions to be carried out inside your cellar and without special tools, but some of these must be carried out sparingly and above all with adequate timing to avoid finding the bicycle nailed and having to spend a fortune to replace all the ruined and worn out pieces.
They will be the basics, but the first tip is always to avoid pressure washers and compressed air, obviously for what concerns the components. If the frame structure can also be rinsed with high-pressure tools, it is best to avoid mechanical parts, especially those that pass through the frame (bottom bracket, headset, cable passages). The surface dirt, it is true, is easily swept away, but the residues that are in the middle, therefore closer to the gears, risk penetrating deeply and settling in hardly identifiable points. Good old garden gum is more than enough, then grab a cloth and dry thoroughly.
Once or even twice a season, it is necessary to disassemble the pedal and grease the two ends with a viscous fluid enriched with Teflon.
The chain does not pack
The wrong choice is to spray the lubricating oil all over the sprocket set. Better to avoid sprinkling the cassette with liquid, also because more dirt accumulates between the gears. The ideal is to oil the chain positioned on the last gear so as to be away from the disc. Two turns of the pedal are enough to moisten all the links.
In the gearbox cage, the pulleys and joints can be lubricated from time to time. Obviously, the more frequent the exits on the mud are and the more it will be necessary to resort to oil. Among the various products on the market, it is better to choose those with a Teflon component: in addition to cleaning, contributing to mtb lubrication and bucking, they ensure that dirt does not stick. The classic Wd-40 performs these tasks perfectly. If a few drops of oil end up on the disc, use lemon juice.
Another type of liquid that does not really concern mtb lubrication, but the perfect functioning of the tubeless and prevention, is the latex that fits inside the tire. Nowadays, very few bikers use the inner tube, but also few of those who know how to handle tubeless bikes. If you have to fit a new tire, the minimum quantity to insert is about 60 millimeters of liquid. In part, it will dry out at the edges to make the rubber on the rim latex, while the rest of the fluid will only come into action in the event of a puncture. Some think that the more liquid you put in, the more it works. Actually, when it doesn’t work, it’s because the hole is too big. The “racers” can fill between 30 and 40 milliliters of minimum quantity. It will also be important to remove the tire from time to time to make sure it does not dry out.
Perhaps it is one of the most neglected components by the average biker who thinks he has to rely only on technicians in moments of serious damage. The fork, however, as well as the shock absorber, must be checked just as much as the other elements. There are no interventions that are too delicate to do. After a general clean with a little water, we get back to the trusty lube that we used at the beginning to refurbish the transmission.
After the water, it is necessary to dry the suspension stems near the oil seals, therefore the lower end of the track, it is not necessary to flood them with oil, since inside each sleeve there is already another fluid, and also under the sheath has a sponge soaked in a greasy substance. Once a small quantity has been sprayed, we will have to sprinkle the lubricant evenly with an uncut cloth and dry the excess. It is not mandatory to lubricate this component at every ride, as well as for the others, but remember to do it every now and then. To eliminate the dirt that accumulates between the stem and the sheath, a real overhaul is necessary, while this is a panacea for the sponge that revives.